Tuesday 11 December 2012

The Well of the Turk, Hania

This restaurant serves phenomenal fresh, organic food in the Turkish district of Hania known as Splantzia.  The historical building lies amongst a "labyrinth of narrow streets" on Rouga Square and houses The Well of the Turk and a marble fountain depicting scenes of Istanbul.  This establishment is truly enthralling and I am amazed at its efficiency as the kitchen is up a flight of stairs on the second floor.  Although there is a lovely dining room inside, the breezy tables outside are preferable and the patio wraps around to an intimate side street too narrow for cars.  

The restaurant's owner, an ex-pat from the UK, creates wonderful, flavourful dishes from Middle Eastern and Mediterranean influences.  Having lived in Morocco learning about cuisine from a good friend, she provides the unique spicing and textures from this culture.  The Greek influence comes from her mother-in-law when she first arrived in Greece; it was through food that she learned the language.

Our appetizer was the freshest, flavour-popping salad I've ever had.  Along with organic greens, avocado, oranges and black olives were tossed with crunchy flakes of Greek sea salt.  The Mid East/Med spices combined beautifully first with chicken and bacon kabobs and then with a spinach, cheese, almond and raisin crepe pie.  Plumpness, crunch, creamy - all together in a warm nest.  The owner, Jenny, brought marvellous food and took us on the grand tour.  The Well of the Turk was a terrific surprise.


courtesy of www.welloftheturk.com

Crete, Greece 2010/2011

courtesy of www.lonelyplanet.com

This month's entry is somewhat different - we're going on a brief tour of the island of Crete.  This is the largest of the Greek islands and the most southerly, sitting between the Aegean and Libyan Seas.  Crete is Greece's most populaces island as well and, as you can see by the map, divided into four regions.  Cities in three of them will be discussed here.


Iraklion (Heraklion)


Iraklion is the largest city on Crete and its administrative capital.  It has a lively port where ferries and cruise ships dock.



What makes this an important centre is its proximity to the ruins of the Palace of Knossos.  These city remains are considered to be from one of the very first civilizations (approx. 2700 BCE). Developed by the Minoans, feats of engineering such as running water are some of their most prominent accomplishments.  The ruins are controversial as their discoverer, Arthur Evans, made attempts to restore parts of the area to show what this civilization may have looked like.  Nonetheless, the developments uncovered here prove that the Romans were not the first masters of engineering and artistry.


Iraklion's public bus was an extremely efficient method of getting to and from the site.  It leaves from the bus station right at the port and drops passengers off virtually at the entrance to the ruins.

Iraklion hosts the Archaeology Museum that houses the brilliant creations of the Minoans that were unearthed at Knossos.  Although the Museum was under massive renovation (this is Greece, nothing happens with any expediency), the most famous pieces were moved to a temporary chamber at the back of the facility for viewing.  The images of dancers jumping over a bull can be found on frescoes and funereal scenes on the sides of sarcophagi.  The meticulously detailed bee pendant is also on display here.  The Minoans' ability to work with such tint elements is a true marvel.

With a number of interesting shops and restaurants, Iraklion is a fascinating place to begin a visit to Crete.


Hania (Chania)


Hania is a charming town where much of its activity involves the marina, full of small fishing vessels and tour boats.  Much of the harbour is protected by a stone wall leading out to a petit nut functional lighthouse.  Numerous outdoor restaurants and shops wind their way along the lengthy harbour area.




On one side of it sits what appears from the outside to be a tall warehouse building.  Once inside, however, a wonderful discovery is made.  This is, on the surface, the Maritime Museum of Crete-Chania.  Ah, but it is so much more.  The high, long room really only focuses on one thing - the re-creation of a Minoan ship.  The seafaring experts of Hania took on this massive project as a presentation for the 2004 Athens Olympics.  The research about how the beams were shaped, how the individual pieces were held together, the waterproofing, the making of a sail, etc., was an enormous undertaking, not to mention the historical accuracy with which it was built.  The completed ship is a phenomenal homage to yet another brilliant Minoan accomplishment.  Unfortunately, the project was deemed to be inauthentic and ship was never rowed into Piraeus Harbour.  It now sits in the Museum, a testament to the devotion and commitment to history.



On our last day in Hania, we took a day tour from the small port of Kissamos on a lovely tour vessel with beach chairs and towels.  Our first stop was at Gramvousa where a Venetian castle sits atop the hill overlooking a serene beach.  The second stop was at the Balos Lagoon.  This exquisite shallow bay was wonderfully warm, heated by the sun and the sand went on for miles; even between the boat and the lagoon there was a deep stretch of sand and stones.  It was a relaxing ride with lunch provided and plenty of sunbathing.



Hania is a beautiful destination with very friendly and welcoming people.  Between the food market in the centre of town and the pedestrian shopping street, there are plenty of activities to keep one entertained.


Agios Nikolaos

Agios Nikolaos is one of the most picturesque ports that we've visited.  We were only here for the day but we are determined to return.  The town has a dock that allows small cruise ships to anchor right in the middle of town.  Beautiful trees and gentle hilly streets define this charming place.



Our primary focus of the afternoon was a special lunch recommended by a Greek friend but, upon her additional recommendation, we visited a wonderful gallery and shop - Atelier Ceramica.  What a treasure trove this turned out to be.  Up an unassuming street was a small storefront bursting at the seams with amazing creations.  Artist Nic Gabriel creates artifacts and replicas in the ancient Greek style, according to their history and using time-honoured, colourful techniques.  Each one has an historical period and description on it somewhere.  Gabriel works on pieces from a number of eras - the early Minoan to the Hellenic period; anything from frescoes to pottery to ceramics.  His studio is his gallery and his gallery is his shop.  On any given day, you will find Gabriel there working away.  The most difficult thing was what to choose - I wanted them all!








Wednesday 14 November 2012

Hop On Hop Off

For those of you who find it difficult to simply walk around in a new destination or you just want a good way to orient yourself, many cities now have a "Hop On Hop Off" bus system or its equivalent.  This is an easy and very budget-conscious way to see your destination, taking in all the major sights.  The bus usually has a number of stops and some systems even have several different routes.  This allows the rider to get on and off at any point along the tour, numerous times, during a 24 hour period.  It may be helpful to take this journey shortly after your arrival in order to see the areas to which you may wish to return.  The fares are very reasonable and tickets can be purchased usually online or on the bus itself.  Often your fare includes the purchase of headphones, allowing you to listen to commentary about the city in several different languages.  I've experienced these systems both in North America and in Europe so do your homework to see if it's available on your next trip.

Coyote Cafe, Santa Fe

This restaurant is notable, not only for its vibrant cuisine, it is also the source of the Southwest style of cooking.  In 1987, Chef Mark Miller created the Modern Southwest Cooking style here; a fusion of flavours and recipes that was popular with cowboys, Native Americans, Spanish colonial settlers and Mexicans throughout the 16th century.  

The cafe's ambience is very warm and, due to the style of the cuisine, the adobe architecture is quite prevalent.  Throughout, the guests are enveloped in a cozy orange light.  Its ceiling is very high and has a series of glass rectangles hanging in various colours by thin wires.  Each one is rippled, seeming to represent birds flying overhead.  Above the open kitchen area, a video of fireplace flames is projected on the wall, adding not only to the warmth of the room, but in some cases, the heat of the food.

Which is, as always, most distinct.  We started with an organic baby lettuce salad with pears and pecan brickle in a cider vinaigrette.  A tasty twist on a classic.  We also sampled a fabulous rare ahi with foie gras.  The first main course resonated with some of that "heat," a fiery white shrimp and rice cake with basil aioli.  The second was a mesquite grilled lobster tail.  Don't think Chappy would have barbecued that on the back of the chuck wagon.  Round 'em up, boys!


courtesy of www.finetravel.com

Santa Fe, New Mexico, August 2009/2012

It's now time to discuss something a little closer to home.  Santa Fe is quite an unusual city with a proud history.  There is great respect for the Native American tribes of the region - Navajo and Apache - as evidenced by its artisans and cuisine.  Architecturally, the low adobe structures are the primary part of the landscape.  There is a definite lack of high rise structures in the Old City; it is a pleasure to be in such free and open space.  Santa Fe is the capital of the state yet it boasts no commercial airport.  Access by air must be via Albuquerque, approximately 45 minutes by car from Santa Fe.  This is a testament to the focus of the citizenry on the environmental, social and cultural needs of the area.  Tourism is an important part of Santa Fe's economy but not to the detriment of the city's resources.

The Historic Plaza dominates the Old City with benches on all four sides, colourful hanging baskets of flowers and a quaint gazebo for music or special events.  With shops on three sides supporting Native artistry such as jewelry, pottery and woven textiles, visitors can purchase beautiful remembrances of their stay.


courtesy of D.R. Craig





On the fourth side of the Plaza stands the Palace of the Governors.  Constructed in the early 17th century, this was the seat of the Spanish government.  Its walls are four feet thick and the building is made up of long rooms with a secure courtyard.  It represents 400 years of New Mexico history.  Our recent visit was during the 100th Anniversary of the state.  New Mexico became the 47th member on January 6, 1912.  

courtesy of www.nmhistorymuseum.org




Opened in May, 2009, and located directly behind the Palace, is the New Mexico History Museum.  This light and airy facility houses a number of exhibits and collections.  The early history of the region's indigenous people is presented in dioramas and photographs  as well as artifacts.  Spanish colonization, the Mexican Period and trade and commerce on the Santa Fe Trail are highlighted in similar presentations.  The museum is a testament to the pride that New Mexicans take in their heritage.


courtesy of www.nmhistorymuseum.org




One of the more exciting finds is two blocks off the Plaza in the Pueblo-Revival style building housing the Georgia O'Keeffe Museum.  The collection opened in July, 1997, and houses 1149 paintings, drawings and sculpture.  This is the largest single collection of her work but still the beautiful facility is too small.  Its wonderful neutral white spaces are used to rotate O'Keeffe's varied pieces, often presenting not only her works but also the tools she used to create them.  On our last visit, her entire campsite was set up to show how she lived in the desert during times of her research.  Georgia O'Keeffe's (1887-1986) love of the New Mexico landscape is reflected in what she referred to as "the wideness and wonder of the world as I live in it."  

courtesy of www.concierge.com




Our primary purpose for visiting this fascinating city was to attend the brilliant Santa Fe Opera.  Founded in 1957 by New York conductor, John Crosby, it has become one of the world's leading opera festivals.  Producing such traditional pieces as Puccini's Tosca and premieres like Morrison's Oscar - about the life of Oscar Wilde - the Opera draws international vocalists, directors and designers.  In 1965, a training program was added in order to expose new artists to its wonders.  The building itself is adobe style, blending art and nature, open to the air and nestled in the mountains just outside the city.  The current version of the facility opened in 1998 with seating for 2128 and 106 standing spaces.  This open-air theatre has panels on its south side to defend against substantial winds and rain.  A particular feature of the building is its roof.  Not only is it shaped in such a way that the sound flows perfectly from the stage to the audience, it also collects 60,000 gallons of rainwater each year for maintaining the grounds.

courtesy of www.santafeopera.org










Monday 15 October 2012

Cote Plages, St. Martin

This little French restaurant sits on one side of the Orient Bay square.  With its white painted wood and navy cushions, it truly feels like a seaside bistro.  Each table is lit by small candles casting a warm orange glow.  As it was during the holiday season, the whole  square was lit with colourful lights strung from one side to the other.  It added a festive air to our experience.  

Our meal began with a wonderful amuse bouche - a little shooter glass of cumin carrot soup.  This was the perfect beginning, preparing the palate for yummy things to come.  Although French in influence, the menu included its Caribbean locale both in ingredients and freshness.  Our starters reflected this.  The first was a carpaccio of marlin in lime and coconut milk and the other was a lobster bisque with truffle shavings and creme fraiche. Imagine these flavours at their very freshest!

The main course was both tasty and adventuresome.  We had whole shrimp steamed in cognac with risotto and cauliflower salad.  We had great fun de-heading and peeling these critters knowing how scrumptious the reward would be.  Not only were they succulent, they were huge!  None of this imported c**p!

We finished with a more traditional French dessert - bananas flambé - local, fresh Caribbean bananas made it all the more flavourful.  A fabulous meal in a beautiful setting.



St. Maarten/St. Martin, December 2011

And now, we move away from Europe to a small island in the northeast quadrant of the Caribbean.  Sint Maarten/Saint Martin was first settled by the Arawak Indians from South America.  They were followed by the Carib Indians who named the island "Soualiga," Land of Salt.  On Christopher Columbus' second voyage in 1493, he came across the island, opening the door for European settlement.  The first were the Dutch in the 1620's, who began to harvest the salt ponds.  The value of this commodity was widely known and the Spanish built forts in 1634 in order to ensure access to it.  During this same century, both the Dutch and the French created small settlements, eventually running off the Spanish.  On March 23, 1648, the two nations signed the Treaty of Concordia, officially dividing the island between the Netherlands and France.  Today, Sint Maarten/Saint Martin is the smallest island to be divided between two countries although the border is virtually invisible.

St. Maarten's capital, Philipsburg, is a lively starting point, housing the island's airport and cruise ship terminal.  Focused primarily on tourist traffic, we didn't hang around on this side for very long.  One of the more unusual destinations on the Dutch side, however, was shown to us by our local guide.  She is quite involved with an iguana rescue farm and made a point of taking us to see it.  What initially appeared to be a rather nondescript dusty plot of land soon revealed its hidden treasures.  Around a small pond, a number of low lying trees housed a multitude of saved iguanas.  They were camouflaged amongst the leaves on the branches so you really had to look hard for them.  In the background, the moo-ing of a nearby cow provided the soundscape.  It was loosely chained to a fence and appeared to be rather disturbed by our presence.  As if that were not incongruous enough, as we stood there, a peacock wandered out from I'm not sure where and strutted around in the dirt.  This was not your typical tour stop.


See it?

How about now?


Most of our time was spent on the French side of Saint Martin in Orient Bay.  To get there it's best to rent a car as it is about a 45 minute drive.  It is also best to make this trek during daylight hours otherwise you may just crack the axle of the car.  Much of the drive is along the Dutch side and, unfortunately, the government has not been vigilant in the area of road maintenance.  Can you say potholes?!

The French capital, Marigot, hosts an interesting marketplace right on the water.  With rhythmic Caribbean music playing, the market boasts bright and colourful souvenirs as well as numerous food offerings of local origin.

The world on this side is a much more relaxing and beautiful place.  Orient Bay is a long, flat and deep stretch of fine white powder sand.  Azure waters have active white caps causing waves to curl and crash on shore.  There is always a slight salty taste in the air and the blue, blue sky is spotted with puffy clouds and parasailers.  All along the beach, locals wander selling their wares - CD's, jewelry, hats - whatever they have.  However, inlike most tourist spots, these vendors are never pushy.

















Placed along the land edge of the beach, Orient Bay is lined with local, casual eateries with little wooden huts hovering over the tables.  From these huts, you can simply walk out to soft cushioned beach chairs warmed by the sun.  These belong to the hotels on the Bay.  The only charge for the use of the chairs is for the ones closest to the water.




The other area of Orient Bay is its main square behind the beach and hotels.  There are no large resorts here so everything is in close proximity.  The square is paved with small gravel and contains numerous wooden benches and a few shade trees.  It's a terrific place for people-watching.  The "French-est" element to Orient Bay is the attention to cuisine. Lining each side of the square are outdoor restaurants.  They provide a wide array of tastes - French, Italian, Thai and more.  In addition, a few shops can be found at the far end of the square.

Orient Bay is primarily a destination for those who wish to do as little as possible.  Lie in the sun on the beach and then make your way in for a nosh.  What more do you need?

Friday 14 September 2012

Restaurang Prinsen, Stockholm

This eatery served a wonderful combination of traditional Swedish dishes with some more contemporary international fare.  Founded in 1897, Restaurang Prinsen sits along a pedestrian thoroughfare with an outdoor patio, much like a classic French bistro.  We were fortunate to sit at a small open window table that overlooked the patio and allowed us to people watch during our meal.

Which was a delight, by the way.  We started with a creme of Jerusalem artichokes topped with crayfish tails and who could visit Sweden without sampling the herring.  These were prepared five ways - one with beets, a Greek style with tzatziki sauce, a traditionally pickled version, a red wine marinade, and a version that completely escapes my memory.

Two memorable mains followed, however.  The first was a thinly sliced cured salmon with fresh dill.  This came with traditional boiled potatoes and some delicious spinach.  The second was a version of Swedish meatballs called "Var Klassiska Wallenbegare."  Yes, wonderful little minced veal burgers with whipped cream and egg yolks.  Delightfully light when the expectation was dense and heavy.

We completed our meal with divine crepes stuffed with vanilla and almond cream and covered in berries with a raspberry sauce.  A great way to complete our visit to Stockholm.

courtesy of restaurangprinsen.eu

Stockholm, Sweden June, 2009

As many of you may know, I used to teach theatre and my husband continues to teach drama at the University.  So, it stands to reason that there would be a theatrical discussion connected to some place in our travels - London, New York - these would be the obvious choices.  And this is why I chose Stockholm instead.

Area of Gamla Stan

Many travel gurus and critics refer to the City of Stockholm as the "Venice of the North."  It's made up of several big rocks on which different areas of the city are housed.  Thus, making it somewhat a mirror of the multi-sectioned lagoon metropolis.  Yes, I know the same is said of St. Petersburg, Russia but I haven't gotten to that entry yet so you'll just have to wait.


Strindberg Museum

Our first theatrical trek was up (way up) the hill from Gamla Stan (see above) to the home of Swedish playwright August Strindberg (1849-1912), perhaps best known for his naturalist piece, Miss Julie.  He lived here in the self-proclaimed "Blue Tower" during the last four years of his life.  The exterior is quite unassuming and so not overrun with tourists.



Upon entering his home, we put little booties over our shoes in order to keep the floors in pristine condition.  It went a long way toward keeping the noise level down throughout the wooden-floored space as well.

The museum is roughly divided into two areas - the few rooms that Strindberg inhabited and spaces set aside for what is now his research library of 3000 works.  One room in particular houses a projector for a rather thorough and interesting documentary about Strindberg's life.  Collections of his plays with programs, scenic and costume design sketches and various translations and publicity on the plays themselves are smartly presented in these areas.

The living spaces have been reconstructed here with the original furniture, however, the textiles and wallpaper are replicas.  The bedroom is quite sparse with only a single bed and armoire.  The dining room was designed to mirror scenic elements from his plays and the study shows the meticulous way that Strindberg kept his home, most specifically his desk.  The apartment had no kitchen so Strindberg had his meals sent down from the landlord upstairs.


Operan

Stockholm's Opera House, known as Operan, was originally built in 1787, enlarged in 1895 in the Renaissance and Baroque styles, and fully restored in 1961.  The scheduled tour includes quite a bit of the building.  In the lobby, a number of lavish period costumes are  on display up the grand staircase.


We were also privy to the stage and the pit areas of the theatre as well as the royal box. The final part of the tour was, of course, the grandest.  The opulent gold, crystal and mirrors of the royal rooms was truly saving the best for last.




Slottsteater

Drottningholm is a small island in the Stockholm environs on which sits the palace of the Swedish royal family.  You access the island by taking a small ferry from Stockholm for about half an hour.  As you approach the destination, the palace stands proud, awaiting your arrival.  Behind it are exquisitely sculpted Baroque gardens complete with glistening fountains.



The Court Theatre of Drottningholm (Slottsteater) is a marvel.  Built in 1766, this theatre continues to produce 17th and 18th century opera in its original setting.  It's a beautiful old proscenium (picture frame) stage with all the finery of hand painted perspective scenery.  I volunteered to run the still-functional wind machine so it gave me a brief chance to see the wings and fly spaces where all the "special effects" are controlled.  What a glorious piece of history but how anyone could sit through a three hour opera in those seats is beyond me.

Once again, my husband's excitement bubbleth over.  I know it's old but really!

Friday 10 August 2012

Lineadombra, Venice

Lineadombra was a find from our wanderings out to the very tip of Dorsoduro near La Salute.  It has a beautiful deck literally floating in the Giudecca Canal beside the walk.  A light canopy keeps the sun off the back of your neck but the open platform allows the breeze to find you.

The staff of this eatery are most helpful in explaining the menu and are so proud of the fresh offerings they have each day.  As foodies know, it is usually wise to try the daily specials on any given menu.  This represents the chef at her or his finest.  So we started with 2 special appetizers - one was a heavenly spider crab salad.  For those who have not experienced these morsels, they are crabs about the size of a small tarantula (yes, I know not the greatest food image but it is the perfect size equivalent) and you eat the whole thing, much like you do with a soft shell crab.  Delish!  The second appetizer was a tartare dish that included 3 types of fish, a scampi, a langoustine and a scallop.  What a luscious array.

The main course was shared - chosen from a platter of the fish that had been caught that morning.  Our choice was the special "lucerne," a strange looking reddish "thang."  This baby was baked in parchment inside a salt crust with artichokes, grape tomatoes, black olives and thinly sliced potatoes.  So fresh and unique.  Okay, so we were soooo full we opted out of dessert but espresso and a limoncello is just about as good.

Now, before we go any further, I want to bring up a topic that is bound to rear its ugly head again and again.  For those of you who know me (and that's pretty much everyone), you'll know about my love of all things salty.  If any of you don't know, put salt and sugar in front of me and I'll choose salt every time.  I just want to make it perfectly clear that the salt crust was a cooking method and I did not, I repeat, did not eat it!

courtesy of www.ristorantelineadombra.com

Venice, Italy May, 2008


courtesy of Lonely Planet


Dorsoduro

One of the best districts of the lagoon city of Venice is Dorsoduro.  This is a cultural and academic mecca between the Giudecca and Grand Canals with so much to see and do.  The Guggenheim Museum and the Gallerie dell'Accademia are well known stops for all the obvious reasons.  Lovers of fine art will find marvels here - from the Italian Renaissance right up to contemporary artists like Joan Miro.  What's off the beaten path, however, is more exciting in many ways because you're never quite sure what's around the corner or over the tiny bridge.  Our day's surprise occurred around one of those corners during a walk in our favorite neighbourhood - a mask shop.  Now, you say, "What, a mask shop in Venice?! That's original."  But wait, this mask shop belongs to the artist who designed the masks for Stanley Kubrick's film Eyes Wide Shut.  I have mixed feelings about the film but see it if for no other reason than to see the masks.  They're great.  We now own 3 pieces from his store - only one is a replica from the film.  Each one is hand-made and there are even functional masks for actors of the commedia dell'arte, made of leather complete with with a proper buckle and strap.

Ca'Macana Mask Shop


Jewish Ghetto

We walked from Dorsoduro around the island of Venice to the Jewish Ghetto.  This community was the first of its kind in Europe, built in 1516.  Rather a black mark on Venetian history, the residents were locked in nightly by large iron gates, keeping them imprisoned for the length of the curfew.  Today, the gates are gone and this little neighbourhood is rather quiet, with multi-storied homes standing side by side.  The main square also contains a couple of small but inspired galleries.  There are still the remains of the original wall here, reminding visitors of what took place, but the more unsettling aspect is the placement of a statue of the Madonna and Child at one corner.


The Jewish Quarter
In Dorsoduro looking north





















Cicchetti

An outing in Dorsoduro brought us to a small eatery for a few cicchetti and a glass of wine.  Cicchetti is the Italian version of Spanish tapas.  The plates are presented within a glass case and you can choose from a variety of these snacks - from baccala (salt cod) to olives to prosciutto.  Another true sign of European service, I mentioned a glass of wine - well, I meant it.  Along with our paper plates, we were handed glass wine glasses even though we were headed out of the shop to eat.  They simply trust that you will return it instead of collecting a set of 12 for your dining room.  Hmm...not in my world.  What a restful way to have a nibble.  We took our bites and wine across the nearby bridge to find our place in the grass along the Rio San Trovaso.  As we ate, we watched the goings on at the business next door - a gondola repair shop right at the water's edge.  Only in Venice!


Tuesday 31 July 2012

Government Assistance

I've recently discovered a very thorough document from the Canadian Transportation Agency that gives great device on accessible travel.  It's entitled "Take Charge of Your Travel:  A Guide for Persons with Disabilities".  You can download the brochure at www.cta.gc.ca.

For similar links (although I haven't found a sister document) go to the U.S. Department of Transportation at www.dot.gov.

Friday 13 July 2012

Restaurant La Couronne, Rouen

La Couronne remains a classic French restaurant both in menu and in atmosphere.   The salon even houses a shining silver duck press and it is currently in use.  The colours of the dining area are subdued clarets and midnight blues with dark wooden tables and chairs.  The lighting enhances the relaxed tone with candles and small wall sconces.

Our dinner was exquisite and served with warmth and professionalism.  It is so nice to be in a part of the world where food service is a career choice and not a temporary job for the out-of-work actor.

We began the meal with an amazing foie gras (Hudson Valley's got nothing on these guys) and fresh large Normandy oysters.  I'm not sure that oysters get any better than this.  Fish was the choice for our entrees but we each chose a different variety.  The sea bream with cheesy risotto rivalled the sea bass fingers in a lemony sauce (please don't confuse "fingers" with "sticks").  Both were moist and buttery and equally rich.  The cheese course was a wonder - delicious livarot and camembert - what, French cheese was delicious?!  Imagine that.  And then we still had dessert.  A peach au gratin and a true burnt cream (yes, creme brûlée).  Can one ever be too full for dessert?

This was the view from our table.
courtesy of www.lacouronne.com.fr


Rouen, France May, 2010

The Petit Train begins in Rouen's main square where the town's own Notre Dame stands grandly.  At the time of our visit, the cathedral was presenting a collection of Claude Monet's marvellous work.  The train is a charming way to get a comprehensive tour of the old city.  This part of Rouen is primarily a pedestrian area with narrow streets and overhanging roof lines.  The motorized train is open-sided, allowing passengers to lean out and gaze up at the colours and wooden beams of the cramped old homes or the funny gargoyles poking out from the roof of the law school.


At the heart of the old town centre is the hallmark Clock Tower.  It stands proudly over Rouen with a stunning azure face and gold accents.  The chiming of the bell can be heard far and wide.





Musee des Beaux Arts

Founded in 1801 by Napoleon I, the current building was constructed between 1880 and 1888.  This serene structure lies in the academic community of Rouen near the University.  It houses works from the Renaissance and Baroque periods as well as the Romantics and Impressionists among others.  In addition, there is a collection of paintings that highlight Rouen as well as portrait rooms, sculpture collections, still lifes and more.  You'll find many of the great masters here - Rubens, Gauguin, Renoir, Caravaggio, Modigliani - just to name a few.

It's an intimate museum with many small rooms to house these great works.  This allows the visitor to feel more closely connected to the pieces.  That's assuming that the museum isn't crowded during high tourist season.  We were very fortunate that it was fairly quiet during our visit and we were able to enjoy all the museum had to offer.



Joan of Arc

Rouen's claim to fame is the execution of Joan of Arc.  It is here that she was burned at the stake in 1431.  On the exact spot, a slim austere white cross has been erected in memory of this sainted Frenchwoman.  Beside it is a dark and stark museum devoted to her story.  The restaurant we visited, La Couronne, was established in 1345 in a location directly across the street.  What is unsettling is that if Joan of Arc was executed in 1431, the restaurant had patrons on that horrific day who witnessed it.  Unfortunately, at this time, an execution was considered something like a sporting event.





Saturday 23 June 2012

Lasarte Restaurante, Barcelona

Lasarte is arguably Barcelona's best restaurant and its master, Martin Berasategui, is considered the #1 chef in Spain since the closure of Ferran Addria's El Bulli.  Very deserving of its 2 Michelin stars, the food is both creative and delicious.  The flavours and textures make perfect sense, unlike many of the current gastronomical experiences that seem to be more interested in turning the meal into a chemistry experiment.


The mood of the space is subdued and warm.  Each eating area houses only a few tables so you never feel crowded by other diners.  The white plaster of the walls is beautifully complimented by muted gold accents and fresh fragrant flowers.


The food, of course, is the real star.  Tasting bites and small tapas serve as the amuse bouche - spiced pistachios, potato with roe, and smoked oyster with cream.  As appetizers we chose three tapas - smoked eel, prawn with sea urchin (oh, to eat this again!), and tuna tartare with caviar.  The seafood delights were perfectly matched, preparing us for amazing main courses.  Rare pigeon breasts with risotto-style truffle gravy and charcoal grilled tuna belly with mango, capers and greens.  A wonder of flavours!  Dessert was a sweet treat adventure.  Rice and cardamom juice over olive oil cake with olive oil ice cream was my choice and my husband devoured the French toast with coffee ice cream and caramel foam.  Yum!!


Each course was prepared with unusual flavour combinations that made for a unique dining experience.


Courtesy of www.restaurantlasarte.com

Barcelona, Spain May, 2012

This was our 2nd visit to Barcelona and, this time, we focused most of our energy on the architecture of Antoni Gaudi (1852-1926).  It is widely accepted that the city became well-known thanks to the accolades awarded to him and his glorious designs.  We explored 3 works on this trip:  Parc Guell, Casa Battlo, and La Sagrada Familia.  Each has distinct elements that immediately identify it as a Gaudi piece - saturated colour, a lack of straight lines and corners, and a profound interest in nature.


Parc Guell

Parc Guell was originally designed to be a private residential development but when the plan didn't sell, the city purchased the land and created a beautiful public park.  At its top level is a gathering place with tile-covered benches overlooking the whole area.  These multi-coloured shards were collected by Gaudi from various ceramics factories around the city and used to provide seating for the residents.  These tiles remain today glistening in the sun on the seats of the Parc Guell for everyone to enjoy!



Wander down to the park's lower entrance and you encounter one of its most spectacular attractions.  You hear the tinkling of the water before you see the fountain, made of the same tiles as above.  Surrounded by lush greenery and petit flowers, a lizard-like figure dominates the scene.  There is much speculation about its identity.  Many believe its design is based on George's dragon from the myth of old.



Casa Battlo

Casa Battlo, in the Eixample district, is one of the private residences designed by Gaudi.  I don't think that there is a straight line or proper corner in the whole house.  Creaking floorboards lead you to a light-filled room, rose-colored from the glass spirals inset in the windows.  The brass door handles look almost fluid as they seem to fit the shape of your hand.  The ceramic pieces here are brilliant colours, fully created for this space, unlike the "found" shards used in the park.  This is the place often referred to as the "house of bones" due to the unusual shapes on its facade.



La Sagrada Familia

Gaudi's life's work, lasting far longer than his life, is the incredible La Sagrada Familia.  This Catholic church is in its 129th year of construction, expected to be completed in 2026.  This labour of love has three distinct areas which have been designed by different artists over the years but they contain the essence of what Gaudi originally laid out.  The front facade evokes the stories of Christ's birth and childhood as well as the love of nature that Gaudi possessed.  For instance, the base of one of the columns sits on the back of a large turtle.  The sanctuary itself is full of light and has a Gothic feel.  Where classic Gothic style uses columns and arches for stability, Gaudi mirrors this by using tree trunks for columns and branches and leaves for arches.  The back side is post-modern in style - much more angular and dark in mood.  As these scenes depict the torture and crucifixion of Christ, the tone seems appropriate.



As this was our second visit to Barcelona, my husband was quite excited about returning to this amazing structure.  Unfortunately, his behaviour can be just a tad over the top.