Monday 11 February 2013

Akbiyik Fish Restaurant, Istanbul

I've seen some very negative reviews of this place online but, truly, I cannot understand why.  We not only had a wonderful meal, we were treated very well by several lovely gentlemen.

Akbiyik Fish Restaurant is located on the corner of a main street in Sultanahmet but in a less trafficked area so it was less touristy.  Along the outside wall of the restaurant on its side street sat three men providing some traditional Turkish music.  Because it was outside, we could enjoy it without feeling overwhelmed by it.  At the entrance, there are a couple of steps that bring you in slightly below street level.  It's interesting to people watch from this vantage point.  The interior isn't much to look at, very simple, but it's the food...!

The first course was a tray of mezes (or small plates) from which we could choose as many as we wished.  The three we ate were terrific - a roasted aubergine (eggplant), a potato and caper salad and a marinated octopus.  We ordered a local Turkish wine with this - something similar to a sauvignon blanc and very nice.  As we sipped, a fresh platter of fish was brought out for us to choose.  We picked a glistening white grouper that was baked in a salt dome.

This is a bit of a lengthy process, so while we waited, we were brought a plate of THE MOST TENDER calamari rings - exquisite.  When the fish came out, two men set it on fire and then proceeded to chisel the dome open.  Once the largest chunks were removed, another man removed the fish and filleted it.  Along with the fillets, we were served the cheeks of the grouper and the shrimp and mushroom stuffing that had steamed inside.  Mr. Grouper was so large that we had to forgo dessert.  But what a great meal!  This was a lovely change from the more touristed places in Istanbul.



Istanbul, Turkey May 2011

Istanbul is a cornucopia of sights, sounds, scents, flavours and textures.  From the hundreds of mosque minarets, to the cobblestones of the streets, the aromas of perfume oil to the flavours of spices, the sounds of the muezzins calling Muslims to prayer - this ancient place is steeped in a unique history.


courtesy of www.lonelyplanet.com




Our first morning in Istanbul was a bit jarring.  If you don't reside in a place that caters primarily to a Muslim population, then you are wholly unprepared to be awakened at 5am to the sound of an amplified muezzin calling the faithful to morning prayers.  We were happily ensconced in a hotel in the Sultanahmet district, in the heart of the Old City.  So, there must be fifty mosques (not much of an exaggeration) in this area and, at the crack of dawn (or before), this cry comes very early.  We, frankly, had forgotten about this practice so we were rudely awakened this first morning - our own fault!



The Blue Mosque

It was very appropriate, then, that our first visit was to the Blue Mosque.  Built in the first half of the 16th century, the young Sultan Ahmet I was determined that his new mosque would be more glorious than the nearby AyaSofya (now a museum).  That is why the Blue Mosque boasts six minarets instead of the usual four.  


And the exterior appointments are merely the start.  We made our way into its courtyard and up a flight of stairs.  Along this outer corridor we were given a plastic bag in which to carry our shoes while inside.  Once in the domed sanctuary, you notice long, low bench-like wooden pieces.  These, I was informed, were for worshippers to place the bag of shoes during a service.


Well, Sultan Ahmet certainly succeeded here.  The domes overhead are stunning, covered in gold filigree - verses from the Quran.  And twinkling stained glass windows all around.


The carpet is a claret red dotted with the blue tulips.  It's replaced often when it begins to look worn.  The carpet was a gift to the Mosque from its faithful followers.


But the most phenomenal element is the collection of 20,000 hand-painted ceramic tiles, depicting 50 different tulip designs (seen around the domes above).  This flower became known as the Flower of the Gods over time so it holds a reverent place here.  

An interesting side note:  the tulip did not originate in Holland.  It is thought to have been cultivated by the Turks on 1000 AD.  It wasn't until 500-600 years later that the Dutch became obsessed with the bloom and began their own industry in Northern Europe by bringing seeds from Turkey.



The Bosphorous Strait

The Bosphorous Strait runs alongside Istanbul - separating the continents of Europe and Asia.  This body of water connects the Black Sea to the Aegean Sea (via the Dardanelles). Our boat ride took place on a perfectly beautiful day - nothing but a few white puffy clouds in a bright blue sky.  It was rather a breezy journey so you literally had to hold on to your hat.  The tour took us first toward the Black Sea along the European side, showing the beautiful homes and hotels along the way.


As we approached the entrance to the Black Sea, our vessel crossed over and proceeded back towards Istanbul along the Asian side.  The lovely homes here had a different architecture but certainly not what westerners typically think of as Asian.


During our journey, we passed under the Bosphorous Bridge.  Built in 1973, this suspension bridge connects the two continents.  For many years, this was the longest suspension bridge outside of the United States.




The Spice Bazaar

This market is an amazing gathering place for many different cultures.  Baseball caps shop right beside hijabs - in perfect peace.  Just entering through its beautiful archway, the senses are immediately heightened.  Numerous stalls present little hills of multicoloured spices - the scents of curry, cumin, saffron, pepper and coriander are all prominent here.  I challenge you to name a spice that is not present.


Many owners highlight their perfume oils - the one I noticed most was rose petal.  When it's a pure oil, it doesn't smell like your dear, old grandmother.  I was tempted by our guide to try real, handmade Turkish Delight and I discovered that I loved it.  So much so, in fact, that I purchased a box of pomegranate with pistachio.  The flavours are many and the owners are happy to give you a taste (or 2 or 3).  

There are other stalls along the walk that sell teas and coffees, belly dancing scarves and veils, and other trinkets and souvenirs.  Almost anything you can dream up.  While I shopped in one stall, I was treated to a little straw seat stool where I sat and enjoyed a cup of warm spiced apple tea.  There were several older women doing the same (hmm...I wonder what that means for me!) - like queens in their black hijabs.  It was a wonderful experience for all five of my senses.