Monday 14 January 2013

Each trip brings something new

It seems that each time I travel I learn something that will help me on my next journey.  This trip to the South Pacific taught me something about rain.  Prior to this, my presence in a warm climate never seemed to involve a downpour.  But, as I mentioned, December in the South Pacific is the rainy season.  But it is also quite warm and humid.  So, I wore shorts everywhere.  Which meant I got caught in monsoon-like rain trying to board the ferry from Moorea to Tahiti.  I had to remove the electronic device that I wear on my leg to help me lift my foot.  Otherwise, it likely would have shorted out.  This required, then, that I walk up a very large ramp (with help) in the pouring rain without my walking device.  I was very nervous and, frankly, a tad annoyed that this was the only way they seemed to have available to board the vessel for persons with a mobility issue.  Nevertheless, I made it onboard without ruining my device.  When I arrived back in Canada, I contacted a dear friend who is quite skilled with a needle and thread. She is in the process of making a cover for my device that will be easy to carry and quick to put on.  It will simply be a strip of windbreaker (or something even more waterproof) fabric with elastic on the top and bottom to make sure it hugs the leg.  At each end, it will close with velcro.  So, no bulk and I can slap that thing on in a matter of seconds.  So, whatever sort of exposed electronic device you may have, velcro is a marvelous invention and might be a useful part of keeping it dry.  Think about it.

La Villa des Sens, Moorea

My husband just stumbled on this restaurant in an obscure brochure and a good thing too as it was absolutely the best eatery we visited.  The style of cooking was focused more on the French than the Polynesian but, with the incredibly fresh resources available, La Villa des Sens was a fabulous surprise.  We looked at the a la carte menu and it appeared to be delicious but, as it was Christmas Eve, we decided to have the special pre-fixe menu.

The first course was a red mullet with grilled vegetables, arugula, basil and black olives. These flavours together were wonderful and the fish was so fresh, cooked moist to perfection.  The second course was prepared beautifully - a shellfish soup and green penne pasta.  In a soup, often the shellfish ends up overcooked but not in this case.  The main course was a first for me; oven roasted Bresse capon (yes, these are the famous blue-footed chickens from France), polenta and truffle galette and carrots and turnips candied in honey.  This course was the exact balance of savory and sweet and the bird was perfectly moist and tender.  And no, the feet were not included.  The dessert course was what I often refer to as "slap yo mama" good.  My husband claims that it's the best dessert he's ever had.  It was an exquisitely risen and light chestnut soufflĂ© with mille-feuilles, or simply put, three layered ice cream of chocolate, vanilla and pistachios with rum sauce.  Something akin to the classic French Napolean pastry.  Now, I really don't care for all this text-speak but OMG!!  This was the kind of dessert that makes your eyes roll back in your head.

La Villa des Sens is on the Legends Resort property across the road from the Intercontinental.  It's a very easy walk or, if you're like me and can't walk very far, they will actually pick you up and drop you off in a golf cart.  The dining room is lovely, using the locale to its best advantage.  To start , the outer walls are open with awnings if needed in case of rain.  So, all the lush foliage surrounding the structure is part of the experience.  As is the moon, which presented itself in full on the night we were there.  The interior had inlaid stone walls and warm dark wood floors.  The lighting was diffused, coming primarily from long, narrow fixtures hanging from a high ceiling.  And the owners have chosen some very intriguing abstract paintings that decorate several areas of the room.  This was the perfect way to end our South Pacific adventure.


courtesy of www.legendsresortvillas.com

Papeete, Tahiti December 2012

Our primary purpose for visiting French Polynesia was to go on a cruise but we spent a few days before in Papeete, Tahiti and a few days after on the island of Moorea.  In general, these islands feel like a wilder, more primitive version of the Hawaiian Islands - something before the over-development began in earnest.  We discovered that the economy of French Polynesia has been very effected by both the U.S. and European struggles; many restaurants have simply folded, their French chefs having given up and returned home.  Further, we were present during the rainy season so, although we didn't really lose anything to rain, it was more overcast than we like.  And these islands don't get the trade winds like Hawaii so the air is much more humid and a haven for mosquitoes.  So, if you're like me, you might want to bring insect repellant and certainly something for the bites.  I recommend Burt's Bees Outdoor Bug Bite Relief.  It's a simple solid stick, nothing liquid, so it can be carried in hand luggage and, most importantly, it works.

All that being said, we definitely enjoyed this trip - the islands are beautiful, lush, full of history - a very interesting experience.  I think it is best to start the French Polynesian tour in Papeete.  It's the main city for all the islands and has some fascinating things to see.  We hired a private car and driver to get a sense of our location and our driver, Fifi (yes, that was her name!), was friendly and knowledgeable.




Our first stop was the Paul Gauguin Museum.  Gauguin was a French post-impressionist painter (1848-1903) whose interest in the primitiveness of these islands and their exotic women made it a major focus of his work.  The museum was small and primarily comprised of outdoor structures.  The exhibits were housed in three buildings that covered the artist's life, work and those pieces that were on loan from other museums and galleries.  My husband's favourite Gauguin painting, Contes Barbares (1902), just happened to be there, on loan from Museum Folkwang in Essen, Germany.

The grounds around the structures were quite welcoming with benches and beautiful vistas.  It's a well presented museum, keeping with the spirit of Gauguin's inspirations and creations.


Our second stop was at one of two botanical gardens along Papeete's main road.  As expected, lush foliage everywhere but beautifully laid out along simple walking paths.  Tall vine covered trees towered above and ripening breadfruit hung overhead.  There were brilliant colours in the reds and pinks of the wild ginger and we were there just in time for the blossoming of the Chinese Lanterns.  Apparently, this only happens once a year.




The petit waterfall is a focal point of this garden, not far up the path.  The sound of the water was prevalent from the moment we arrived so finding its source was a priority.  It's not a large deluge but it's a lovely, pristine little spot.



Lastly, Fifi took us to the remains of an ancient Polynesian temple, or Marae.  This is not what we westerners think of as a temple.  There is no physical building.  What you see is a collection of stones laid out on the ground in a large area on which priests and leaders gathered and stood to worship and discuss community issues.  In between the stones, stand thin red markers that represent the gods of this sacred area.  At the entrance to this open area stands a very stern looking statue; he appears to be guarding his land.


There are now two sections of bleachers near the stones as the spot is used for community and cultural events today.


We saw several Polynesian sites as well as pearl farms and vanilla plantations on the islands of Raiatea, Taha'a, Bora Bora and Moorea via the cruise so we looked forward to spending some time by the pool when we disembarked in Moorea.  I don't normally discuss the pros and cons of hotels as it usually isn't worth it, however, I want to tell you how beautifully appointed and comfortable the Intercontinental Hotel is both on Tahiti and Moorea.  We were very well looked after in both and their pools are exquisite.  Although I am unable to stay in them, the over-water bungalows are gorgeous, the perfect romantic getaway.


And finally, if you visit the island of Moorea, you must be sure to see Bali Hai.  Yes, the movie was filmed on Kauai but the peak is here.
It's the one on the right