Stella! New Orleans

The dining room is a beautiful combination of traditional decor - taupe leather chairs with studded accents - paired with contemporary elements.  Above the fireplace is an arrangement of brushed steel stalk and trunk inspired pieces.  The most striking item is an enormous white ceramic vase on the centre table that is simply full of incredible, colourful fresh flowers.

Our meal was a delight.  We chose their four course menu - as each course had several selections from which to choose, we had them pair the wines.  We had mentioned our love of Spanish wines, so the staff made special pairings with only Spanish wine.  We'd never had any of them and they were terrific.  

My first course was devilled egg with caviar and champagne gelee.  'Nuff said.  Heery started with foie gras (you know how he hates that stuff) and a mustard sauce with fruit. The second course was a fantastic Asian chili prawn dish - three gulf shrimp on a slice of baguette - all drenched in a spicy chili sauce.  So yummy!  We both had this course and the third one.  Flounder with mussels, clams, calamari, shrimp and Nantucket scallops in a coconut and kaffir lime broth.  Each piece was perfectly tender but the scallops had a succulent sweetness to them that was quite unique.  The fourth course was rather unusual.  I had a citrus verrine with honey custard - this was a kind of ice creamy sauce on top of this lovely sticky custard.  Heery had a Stella version of a warm, moist almond pound cake.

All of our food choices had elements of classic New Orleans cuisine combined with more modern cooking techniques.  The whole staff was very expert and inviting - we felt most welcome and comfortable.  You simply must go!

courtesy of www.bloomberg.com

New Orleans, Louisiana February 2013

This is an odd entry for me - I don't usually write about a city in which I've been a resident.  But seeing as I departed New Orleans in 1998 and Hurricane Katrina has visited since, I felt it was time to return to the Big Easy.

The city has lost something with the mass exit of many of its citizens from Katrina's disaster.  In some ways, it no longer feels like a living community but more like a theme park.  It does, however, retain its historic sites, legendary music and unique food.  In no way do I recommend avoiding this place because it has changed.  For those who have never lived in the City of New Orleans, it continues to be a wild and wonderful experience.

On this recent trip, my sightseeing was limited to the French Quarter but I feel compelled to provide an additional list of important venues that should be visited.

1.  New Orleans Museum of Art in City Park
2.  Audubon Zoo in the Uptown district
3.  Audubon Aquarium of the Americas at the base of Canal St.
4.  National World War II Museum in the Uptown district
5.  Jazz Music
     -Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop on Bourbon St.
     -Snug Harbor in the Faubourg Marigny

Lafitte's is in the French Quarter and is reputed to be the oldest building to be used as a bar in the US - built in the mid-18th century.  It is here where classic New Orleans jazz can be heard.  Snug Harbor has a marvellous reputation for contemporary jazz - Ellis Marsalis and Charmaine Neville are regulars here.  Its neighbourhood, the Faubourg Marigny, is on the opposite side of the Quarter from Canal St.

Note***Let me emphasize a warning here, as I do with all my friends and clients.  Under no circumstances are you to walk out of the French Quarter (between Canal St. and Esplanade Ave. and Decatur St. and Rampart St.) at night.  It doesn't matter if you're alone or in a group - GET IN A CAB!!  This is still an unpredictable city and during this last visit I met a man who had been mugged only the night before.

That being said, during the day, Magazine St. in the Uptown district is an amazing area for window shopping or even more.  If you are a collector of antiques, this is a must-see during your visit.

The French Quarter is also a wonderful place for exploration so wander around if you can.  Places like Faulkner House Books can be found in Pirates Alley - it is aptly named as it is actually in Faulkner's former home.  There are numerous sites affiliated with Tennessee Williams in the Quarter, even a walking tour that you can join to locate them.  Every March the city presents the Tennessee Williams Festival, a five day celebration of the playwright's life and works.  Numerous bookstores, antique shops, boutiques and, of course, untold numbers of restaurants provide a terrific day in this historic district.

Jackson Square is the heart of the French Quarter, sitting across from the Mississippi River on Decatur St.  Opposite the street side is St. Louis Cathedral (Harry Connick Jr. was married here) and along the adjacent sides are shops and restaurants and some of the city's most expensive condos.

In the centre of the square sits a beautiful little park complete with fountain.  It has been much improved and cleaned up since I was last there.

Outside the fence surrounding the park, the square is a mecca for people-watching.  Yes, there are some people who have fallen on hard times and are completely harmless.  There are magicians and tarot card readers and gypsies, painters and sketch artists.  They want your money but at least you'll have a good time spending it.  And there are always musicians on the benches, playing their famous second line jazz.  Jackson Square is a gathering place for just about every kind of person you can dream up (yes, even mimes!).

There is a world famous place that must be frequented by every first time visitor to the Quarter.  Directly across Decatur from the square is Cafe Du Monde.  You'll know it by its green and white striped awning.  Everyone needs to sit and experience their cafe au lait (with chicory) and beignets.  Yes, little puffy deep fried doughnut-like delights sprinkled with powdered sugar.  Oh, you just don't know... BUT, don't ever inhale as you're taking a bite.  It is powdered sugar, after all.

Now, on either side of the Cathedral are two buildings.  To the left (facing the Cathedral) is the Cabildo - in the 18th century it served as the seat of government under Spanish rule and then became City Hall before its current incarnation as a museum.  The Louisiana State Museum primarily houses three exhibits.  One deals with the politics and economics of the territory prior to the Louisiana Purchase, one deals with issues surrounding the Civil War and the rise of the Ku Klux Klan (nice), and the last one is a very informative presentation on antebellum life.

To the right of the Cathedral sits the Presbytere.  Although designed to match the Cabildo and house the Capuchin Monks, it was never used as a religious residence.  It was ultimately used by the Louisiana Supreme Court in the mid-19th century and today is a museum.  Its two exhibits address the city itself.  On the first floor is a very thorough discussion of the Hurricane Katrina disaster.  There are exhibits showing the levee failures and the measures used to rebuild.  Television news footage of rescues and human suffering are played in loops throughout the exhibit and there is a repeating audio loop of people who witnessed the storm and lived through it.  The second floor is much more light-hearted.  It is an amazing history of Mardi Gras presented in several rooms.  Each space houses parade photos, floats, some costumes, and other bling and throws from the many Krewes (or social clubs).  The display is both fun and informative.

Akbiyik Fish Restaurant, Istanbul

I've seen some very negative reviews of this place online but, truly, I cannot understand why.  We not only had a wonderful meal, we were treated very well by several lovely gentlemen.

Akbiyik Fish Restaurant is located on the corner of a main street in Sultanahmet but in a less trafficked area so it was less touristy.  Along the outside wall of the restaurant on its side street sat three men providing some traditional Turkish music.  Because it was outside, we could enjoy it without feeling overwhelmed by it.  At the entrance, there are a couple of steps that bring you in slightly below street level.  It's interesting to people watch from this vantage point.  The interior isn't much to look at, very simple, but it's the food...!

The first course was a tray of mezes (or small plates) from which we could choose as many as we wished.  The three we ate were terrific - a roasted aubergine (eggplant), a potato and caper salad and a marinated octopus.  We ordered a local Turkish wine with this - something similar to a sauvignon blanc and very nice.  As we sipped, a fresh platter of fish was brought out for us to choose.  We picked a glistening white grouper that was baked in a salt dome.

This is a bit of a lengthy process, so while we waited, we were brought a plate of THE MOST TENDER calamari rings - exquisite.  When the fish came out, two men set it on fire and then proceeded to chisel the dome open.  Once the largest chunks were removed, another man removed the fish and filleted it.  Along with the fillets, we were served the cheeks of the grouper and the shrimp and mushroom stuffing that had steamed inside.  Mr. Grouper was so large that we had to forgo dessert.  But what a great meal!  This was a lovely change from the more touristed places in Istanbul.

Istanbul, Turkey May 2011

Istanbul is a cornucopia of sights, sounds, scents, flavours and textures.  From the hundreds of mosque minarets, to the cobblestones of the streets, the aromas of perfume oil to the flavours of spices, the sounds of the muezzins calling Muslims to prayer - this ancient place is steeped in a unique history.

courtesy of www.lonelyplanet.com

Our first morning in Istanbul was a bit jarring.  If you don't reside in a place that caters primarily to a Muslim population, then you are wholly unprepared to be awakened at 5am to the sound of an amplified muezzin calling the faithful to morning prayers.  We were happily ensconced in a hotel in the Sultanahmet district, in the heart of the Old City.  So, there must be fifty mosques (not much of an exaggeration) in this area and, at the crack of dawn (or before), this cry comes very early.  We, frankly, had forgotten about this practice so we were rudely awakened this first morning - our own fault!

The Blue Mosque

It was very appropriate, then, that our first visit was to the Blue Mosque.  Built in the first half of the 16th century, the young Sultan Ahmet I was determined that his new mosque would be more glorious than the nearby AyaSofya (now a museum).  That is why the Blue Mosque boasts six minarets instead of the usual four.  

And the exterior appointments are merely the start.  We made our way into its courtyard and up a flight of stairs.  Along this outer corridor we were given a plastic bag in which to carry our shoes while inside.  Once in the domed sanctuary, you notice long, low bench-like wooden pieces.  These, I was informed, were for worshippers to place the bag of shoes during a service.

Well, Sultan Ahmet certainly succeeded here.  The domes overhead are stunning, covered in gold filigree - verses from the Quran.  And twinkling stained glass windows all around.

The carpet is a claret red dotted with the blue tulips.  It's replaced often when it begins to look worn.  The carpet was a gift to the Mosque from its faithful followers.

But the most phenomenal element is the collection of 20,000 hand-painted ceramic tiles, depicting 50 different tulip designs (seen around the domes above).  This flower became known as the Flower of the Gods over time so it holds a reverent place here.  

An interesting side note:  the tulip did not originate in Holland.  It is thought to have been cultivated by the Turks on 1000 AD.  It wasn't until 500-600 years later that the Dutch became obsessed with the bloom and began their own industry in Northern Europe by bringing seeds from Turkey.

The Bosphorous Strait

The Bosphorous Strait runs alongside Istanbul - separating the continents of Europe and Asia.  This body of water connects the Black Sea to the Aegean Sea (via the Dardanelles). Our boat ride took place on a perfectly beautiful day - nothing but a few white puffy clouds in a bright blue sky.  It was rather a breezy journey so you literally had to hold on to your hat.  The tour took us first toward the Black Sea along the European side, showing the beautiful homes and hotels along the way.

As we approached the entrance to the Black Sea, our vessel crossed over and proceeded back towards Istanbul along the Asian side.  The lovely homes here had a different architecture but certainly not what westerners typically think of as Asian.

During our journey, we passed under the Bosphorous Bridge.  Built in 1973, this suspension bridge connects the two continents.  For many years, this was the longest suspension bridge outside of the United States.

The Spice Bazaar

This market is an amazing gathering place for many different cultures.  Baseball caps shop right beside hijabs - in perfect peace.  Just entering through its beautiful archway, the senses are immediately heightened.  Numerous stalls present little hills of multicoloured spices - the scents of curry, cumin, saffron, pepper and coriander are all prominent here.  I challenge you to name a spice that is not present.

Many owners highlight their perfume oils - the one I noticed most was rose petal.  When it's a pure oil, it doesn't smell like your dear, old grandmother.  I was tempted by our guide to try real, handmade Turkish Delight and I discovered that I loved it.  So much so, in fact, that I purchased a box of pomegranate with pistachio.  The flavours are many and the owners are happy to give you a taste (or 2 or 3).  

There are other stalls along the walk that sell teas and coffees, belly dancing scarves and veils, and other trinkets and souvenirs.  Almost anything you can dream up.  While I shopped in one stall, I was treated to a little straw seat stool where I sat and enjoyed a cup of warm spiced apple tea.  There were several older women doing the same (hmm...I wonder what that means for me!) - like queens in their black hijabs.  It was a wonderful experience for all five of my senses.

Each trip brings something new

It seems that each time I travel I learn something that will help me on my next journey.  This trip to the South Pacific taught me something about rain.  Prior to this, my presence in a warm climate never seemed to involve a downpour.  But, as I mentioned, December in the South Pacific is the rainy season.  But it is also quite warm and humid.  So, I wore shorts everywhere.  Which meant I got caught in monsoon-like rain trying to board the ferry from Moorea to Tahiti.  I had to remove the electronic device that I wear on my leg to help me lift my foot.  Otherwise, it likely would have shorted out.  This required, then, that I walk up a very large ramp (with help) in the pouring rain without my walking device.  I was very nervous and, frankly, a tad annoyed that this was the only way they seemed to have available to board the vessel for persons with a mobility issue.  Nevertheless, I made it onboard without ruining my device.  When I arrived back in Canada, I contacted a dear friend who is quite skilled with a needle and thread. She is in the process of making a cover for my device that will be easy to carry and quick to put on.  It will simply be a strip of windbreaker (or something even more waterproof) fabric with elastic on the top and bottom to make sure it hugs the leg.  At each end, it will close with velcro.  So, no bulk and I can slap that thing on in a matter of seconds.  So, whatever sort of exposed electronic device you may have, velcro is a marvelous invention and might be a useful part of keeping it dry.  Think about it.

La Villa des Sens, Moorea

My husband just stumbled on this restaurant in an obscure brochure and a good thing too as it was absolutely the best eatery we visited.  The style of cooking was focused more on the French than the Polynesian but, with the incredibly fresh resources available, La Villa des Sens was a fabulous surprise.  We looked at the a la carte menu and it appeared to be delicious but, as it was Christmas Eve, we decided to have the special pre-fixe menu.

The first course was a red mullet with grilled vegetables, arugula, basil and black olives. These flavours together were wonderful and the fish was so fresh, cooked moist to perfection.  The second course was prepared beautifully - a shellfish soup and green penne pasta.  In a soup, often the shellfish ends up overcooked but not in this case.  The main course was a first for me; oven roasted Bresse capon (yes, these are the famous blue-footed chickens from France), polenta and truffle galette and carrots and turnips candied in honey.  This course was the exact balance of savory and sweet and the bird was perfectly moist and tender.  And no, the feet were not included.  The dessert course was what I often refer to as "slap yo mama" good.  My husband claims that it's the best dessert he's ever had.  It was an exquisitely risen and light chestnut soufflé with mille-feuilles, or simply put, three layered ice cream of chocolate, vanilla and pistachios with rum sauce.  Something akin to the classic French Napolean pastry.  Now, I really don't care for all this text-speak but OMG!!  This was the kind of dessert that makes your eyes roll back in your head.

La Villa des Sens is on the Legends Resort property across the road from the Intercontinental.  It's a very easy walk or, if you're like me and can't walk very far, they will actually pick you up and drop you off in a golf cart.  The dining room is lovely, using the locale to its best advantage.  To start , the outer walls are open with awnings if needed in case of rain.  So, all the lush foliage surrounding the structure is part of the experience.  As is the moon, which presented itself in full on the night we were there.  The interior had inlaid stone walls and warm dark wood floors.  The lighting was diffused, coming primarily from long, narrow fixtures hanging from a high ceiling.  And the owners have chosen some very intriguing abstract paintings that decorate several areas of the room.  This was the perfect way to end our South Pacific adventure.

courtesy of www.legendsresortvillas.com

Papeete, Tahiti December 2012

Our primary purpose for visiting French Polynesia was to go on a cruise but we spent a few days before in Papeete, Tahiti and a few days after on the island of Moorea.  In general, these islands feel like a wilder, more primitive version of the Hawaiian Islands - something before the over-development began in earnest.  We discovered that the economy of French Polynesia has been very effected by both the U.S. and European struggles; many restaurants have simply folded, their French chefs having given up and returned home.  Further, we were present during the rainy season so, although we didn't really lose anything to rain, it was more overcast than we like.  And these islands don't get the trade winds like Hawaii so the air is much more humid and a haven for mosquitoes.  So, if you're like me, you might want to bring insect repellant and certainly something for the bites.  I recommend Burt's Bees Outdoor Bug Bite Relief.  It's a simple solid stick, nothing liquid, so it can be carried in hand luggage and, most importantly, it works.

All that being said, we definitely enjoyed this trip - the islands are beautiful, lush, full of history - a very interesting experience.  I think it is best to start the French Polynesian tour in Papeete.  It's the main city for all the islands and has some fascinating things to see.  We hired a private car and driver to get a sense of our location and our driver, Fifi (yes, that was her name!), was friendly and knowledgeable.

Our first stop was the Paul Gauguin Museum.  Gauguin was a French post-impressionist painter (1848-1903) whose interest in the primitiveness of these islands and their exotic women made it a major focus of his work.  The museum was small and primarily comprised of outdoor structures.  The exhibits were housed in three buildings that covered the artist's life, work and those pieces that were on loan from other museums and galleries.  My husband's favourite Gauguin painting, Contes Barbares (1902), just happened to be there, on loan from Museum Folkwang in Essen, Germany.

The grounds around the structures were quite welcoming with benches and beautiful vistas.  It's a well presented museum, keeping with the spirit of Gauguin's inspirations and creations.

Our second stop was at one of two botanical gardens along Papeete's main road.  As expected, lush foliage everywhere but beautifully laid out along simple walking paths.  Tall vine covered trees towered above and ripening breadfruit hung overhead.  There were brilliant colours in the reds and pinks of the wild ginger and we were there just in time for the blossoming of the Chinese Lanterns.  Apparently, this only happens once a year.

The petit waterfall is a focal point of this garden, not far up the path.  The sound of the water was prevalent from the moment we arrived so finding its source was a priority.  It's not a large deluge but it's a lovely, pristine little spot.

Lastly, Fifi took us to the remains of an ancient Polynesian temple, or Marae.  This is not what we westerners think of as a temple.  There is no physical building.  What you see is a collection of stones laid out on the ground in a large area on which priests and leaders gathered and stood to worship and discuss community issues.  In between the stones, stand thin red markers that represent the gods of this sacred area.  At the entrance to this open area stands a very stern looking statue; he appears to be guarding his land.

There are now two sections of bleachers near the stones as the spot is used for community and cultural events today.

We saw several Polynesian sites as well as pearl farms and vanilla plantations on the islands of Raiatea, Taha'a, Bora Bora and Moorea via the cruise so we looked forward to spending some time by the pool when we disembarked in Moorea.  I don't normally discuss the pros and cons of hotels as it usually isn't worth it, however, I want to tell you how beautifully appointed and comfortable the Intercontinental Hotel is both on Tahiti and Moorea.  We were very well looked after in both and their pools are exquisite.  Although I am unable to stay in them, the over-water bungalows are gorgeous, the perfect romantic getaway.

And finally, if you visit the island of Moorea, you must be sure to see Bali Hai.  Yes, the movie was filmed on Kauai but the peak is here.

It's the one on the right