3 Days in Hell on Via Rail - May, 2014

What a lovely, relaxing alternative to air travel - or so we thought - we're so sick of the stress and tension of long flights and airports. We decided to begin our 6 week European journey by taking Via Rail,Canada's passenger train, from Edmonton (it doesn't depart from Calgary) to Toronto to visit friends. We booked a cabin for 2, the top option for this transit, thinking it would be rather romantic. We felt quite confident as Via Rail is quite progressive in its attitude toward passengers with disabilities. Because of my limitations I need a travel companion to assist me so, with a letter from my doctor confirming this need, the company allows the companion to travel free of charge. Yeah, my husband and I went 2 for 1! The positive experience stops here.

We arrived at Edmonton's station around 10pm after having a nice dinner with a friend. The scheduled departure was midnight so we'd given ourselves plenty of time to check in our luggage and I was told that as I had a disability I would be able to board a little earlier. We needn't have worried. Eventually, an employee announced that the train was delayed coming in from Jasper due to a snow storm. Now, for those of you who are not familiar with this area of Canada, this is not at all unusual in May. Anyway, we sat and waited. There wasn't anything around the station and, aside from 2 vending machines, nothing inside the station either. And still we sat. And the employee came out again to announce further delay. Finally, the truth came out - the train was stopped just outside of the city while 2 freight trains travelled through. An appalling fact, that passenger trains have lowest priority - and one that we discovered would haunt us the whole way. So, some time after 2am the train arrived at Edmonton station. And we waited for passengers to disembark and for the train to be prepared. I won't say "cleaned" because I saw very little evidence of this. When we were finally invited to board, we stumbled down a dark, uncovered platform in the rain to our assigned car. And then we got to our cabin. I laughingly call it a cabin - more like a 35 sq. ft. closet with bunk beds. Seriously? Honestly, my closet at home is not much smaller. And seeing as I can't, my 72 year old husband got to crawl up the tiny ladder to his bunk. What is this, summer camp? Although what 8 year old is crawling into bed at 3am?

I will admit that the configuration was somewhat better during the day with the beds stored and 2 leather chairs in their place. And having a toilet and sink in the cabin was more convenient than having to bathe after a total stranger in the shower at the end of the car. Really? For space saving purposes, a counter piece flips up over the sink for extra storage but what a pain. If one actually puts items on it then every time the sink is needed the counter must be cleared in order to access it. This, of course, is so convenient in the middle of the night after using the bathroom. Are you sure you want to wash your hands?

The dining car was the other nightmare. Now, the food was rather good considering the limited space and resources and the serving staff was pretty efficient but being forced into a seat next to any rube is one sure way to ruin even the most gourmet meal. Frankly, people who travel by train on a regular basis, and there are a fair number, are not the most stimulating group. The conversation leaves something to be desired. Sadly, that's all there is on this journey other than reading. It's a good thing my husband and I are avid readers because there is no TV, internet, radio, newspapers - no connection to the outside world whatsoever; not even a satellite signal for a cell phone. And due to delays, the few stops we made - Saskatoon, Winnipeg - were in the wee hours of morning. So, am I going to wake up at 2am just to get off at Winnipeg for a cellphone signal? Who am I going to call?

Needless to say, this train is a petri dish. Windows can't be opened and, if you don't get off at the stops, the only fresh air available is by taking your life in your hands standing between the cars. To say that I was sick as a dog after we arrived in Toronto is an understatement - nothing but tiny germs floating all around us on that nasty little train.

I don't think it's an exaggeration to say that we couldn't wait to get off the thing. There's nothing to see outside in the way of scenery unless you enjoy endless prairie and nothing to do inside so... But wait! Remember the 3 hour into Edmonton? Well, as we chugged along over the course of 3 days, freight trains full of bitumen, grain, containers or whatever required us to pull onto a side track and stop, waiting for every one of them to pass. By the time we arrived at Union Station in Toronto, we were a paltry 7 hours late. Yes, I said 7. Scheduled to arrive at 9:20am but we finally crept into our berth at 4:30pm. Remember the "regulars" I mentioned? Not only were these folks unconcerned by this, they seemed impressed that we actually got there on the expected day. What's wrong with this picture?

This is my cautionary tale - just say no!

How stupid am I?

OK...so I feel a bit dense, really, about this one but perhaps it's only because I'm still a bit of a newbie about this cane and travel stuff.  Recently, I was at my hairdresser chatting with a lovely elderly woman about travelling with a cane.  Unfortunately, she also needed to use one.  

If you will recall, a few years ago, I lost the tip of my cane getting back on a cruise ship and went many days without a replacement.  My advice in that entry was to always travel with a spare.  While that advice still holds (and, trust me, there's always one in my suitcase), this wonderful lady at my hairdresser innocently asked if I had gone to the medical clinic on board to get a replacement.  

Well, HELLO!  To be perfectly frank, this never even crossed my mind at the time nor had it ever until that afternoon.  So, lesson learned.  If you happen to be without a spare cane tip and you lose yours at sea -- go to the ship's doctor -- don't just go tap-tap-tapping along without one for 3 days!

Astrid y Gaston Lima, Peru

Lima's finest eatery is Astrid y Gaston in the Miraflores district.  This is a shopping, eating, partying area of Lima.  This marvelous place has recently been listed as one of the top 15 restaurants in the world - not in Peru, not in South America - the world!!  And rightly so.

The building is actually rather nondescript from the outside - it is next door to three guitar shops.  But once inside - the walls are covered in terrific contemporary paintings, unfortunately none for sale.  And at the back is the open kitchen framed in a high gloss fiery red.  I didn't go back and test it but it almost looks like glass.

We ordered a very interesting Peruvian wine (yes, they make excellent wine here) from the Ica area called Tacama.  There are some areas of inland Peru which are higher in elevation, thus cooler, and well-suited from vineyards.  This blanc to blanc wine is a blend of sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and viognier.  It's a young wine with layers of mineral notes.  Really quite good.

Okay, normally one doesn't make reference to the bread that is brought to one's table but here it's worth it.  It was fantastic!  Five different kinds, all made in-house.  A brioche with chili peppers, a very dark pumpernickel, a multi-grain, an olive bread and a cheese that was almost as dense as cake.  For good measure, they threw in a chili breadstick as well.

I started my meal with a smoked, grilled octopus.  For those of you who remember my blog on Rio - this was as tender as the one in Rio without the mafia.  It was covered in a chorizo sauces and plated with purple foam and a coated potato.  Peru is known for its immense variety of potatoes.  My husband started with tres cebiches - one was a traditional preparation and the two others progressed to something more contemporary - the second was done with coconut milk and chilis and the third was done with substantially more heat.  

For mains, we both had a fish dish.  I had a deep sea fish, sautéed, on a bed of green asparagus risotto and wonderfully fried baby artichokes.  This was one of the best fish I've ever had - perfectly cooked and tender and beautifully spiced.  My Husband had an Amazon fish (there's a first), sautéed as well, served with swiss chard and saffron risotto.  

We'd eaten so much bread that we had to share dessert.  Oh my!  It was a chocolate ball with crunchies and marshmallow cream and raspberry compote inside.  Then warm chocolate sauce was poured over the ball so that the whole thing began to melt.  Now, for someone who doesn't care much for chocolate, I must admit that this was a little scoop of heaven - smooth and creamy.

What a fantastic meal - wine and bread and wonderful food creations.  My husband swears that it's the best meal he's ever had.

courtesy of www.tripadvisor.com

Lima, Peru May, 2013

We visited three sites in Lima - a very unusual city - that gave us a sense of its history and development.  Our first stop was at the Pacific Ocean - on which the Park of Love is perched.  The lovely place sits atop the cliffs of Chorrillos right at the ocean.  The park is set on several levels ultimately leading down to the beach.  One of its highlights is a series of mosaic tiles in several low walls, used to write romantic quotes.  A multi-coloured creation inspired by the great Gaudi of Barcelona and his beautiful Parc Guell.
The park is also full of glorious flower beds lining the stairs at each level.  The park's most inspiring element is a large elevated sculpture.  The Kiss, created by Victor Delfin in 1993, is the primary focus of the park both for the size of the piece and its title.  All the various parts of the park work hand in hand to make this experience a very welcoming, romantic atmosphere.

Playa Mayor provided some history of Lima - this is the main square and the birthplace of the city.  With a beautiful fountain in its centre, the plaza is surrounded by important buildings - the Cathedral of Lima, the Presidential Palace, the Archbishop's Palace and City Hall.  What is most interesting about this site is the variety of architecture.  Each side of the square seems to have been influenced by a different period.

Cathedral of Lima

Our most fascinating stop was at the Monastery of San Francisco - a structure designed in the high Spanish Baroque style, completed in 1774.  The monastery is devoted to the founder of the Dominican order, St. Francis of Assisi, with some 60 monks continuing to live on the premises.  In the public areas ('cause that's all I could see), one can view paintings by both local and European painters of the Mannerist style depicting the life of St. Francis.  Surrounding the courtyard are walls of hand painted tiles where azure blue and sunshine yellow dominate.  The monastery's most significant offering is the Museo de Catacombs.  Below the church itself are preserved catacombs, still housing femurs and skulls of centuries of believers.  Disturbingly, this is also where secret tunnels lead to what was a Tribunal of the Inquisition.  Unfortunately, no photographs are allowed so I am unable to provide evidence of my visit.

this is the entrance to the church itself

Lima is a fascinating city with numerous influences both from other places in South America as well as the rest of the world.  The people are most welcoming and they are eager to expose you to the delights of their metropolis - they are very proud of what Lima has to offer.  If you ever get the chance to travel here, take it!

Zaza Bistro Tropical, Rio de Janeiro

This place is eclectic and funky, just the venue to be in the Ipanema district.  It sits on a corner with cushioned benches outside the gate at street level.  Up the steps are wonderful seats on the wrap around porch for waiting or enjoying a drink with friends.  There are wonderful coloured twinkle lights hanging from the house's white trim and its azure blue facade is most inviting.  

Once inside, you can enjoy your meal at the charming bistro tables downstairs or you can sit on the cushions on the floor at the tables upstairs.  No matter where you choose, the walls are decorated with painted phrases of writers and philosophers and shadow boxes of every shape and size, containing items from all the world's religions.

This diversity is clearly reflected in the myriad of ingredients and cuisine styles.  I started with whitefish ceviche with fruit and cilantro, using wafer-thin potato crisps as a spoon.  I really appreciate ceviche, the fish (or scallop) is so tender and the flavours - lime, for instance - blend so well.  The flavours chosen are also the ingredients used to cure the fish or scallop.  Heery had Zaza's take on the Caprese salad.  This time, a whole tomato was hollowed out and filled with black olive tapenade.  How I love olives!

The mains were equally interesting.  I had flambeed shrimp with risotto al limone (lemon) - it was deliciously rich.  Heery had a special whitefish with a puree of bananas and...fresh (I'll say it again, fresh) hearts of palm.  This is a Brazilian wonder - no pulling mushy stalks out of the can.  Brazil is its home turf.  It was unbelievable!

We finished with a fabulous dessert.  A petit gateau filled with caramel and green tea ice cream on the side.  Since caramel and ice cream are two of my dear husband's favourite sweets, this was the perfect choice.

This meal was a terrific way to begin our trip as it was a lovely two block walk from our hotel on our very first night in Rio.

courtesy of www.restauranting.com.br

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil December 2010

It's summertime in Rio on December so we experienced 35 degrees celcius (95 farenheit) temperatures during the day.  Quite a change from our Canadian winter.  Rio de Janeiro is a large city on the east coast of South America, making it a beach destination for many.  Their beaches are world famous - Ipanema (remember the song?) and Copacabana (I know Barry Manilow was singing about a bar but it got its name here!) - and there is a very active community here, not all of which is tourism.

Ipanema Beach

For miles along the street side of the beaches are wide pedestrian walkways, room for Brazilian sun worshippers and tourists alike.  If you intend to spend some time sunbathing in Rio there are some specific rules that must be followed so that you aren't immediately identified as a foreigner.  Now I know it's instantly a losing battle when you've spent several months with little sunshine and perhaps significant snowfall.  I know I'm almost glow-in-the-dark white and those tanning beds are frightening.  So, get out the sunscreen and keep this list close.

1.  Thong bikinis and speedos

     -ladies and gents, I know that most of us of a certain age would not be caught dead in these (I know I don't want to see it), however, you will stick out like a sore thumb in Rio if you wear your surfing shorts or your tankini and skirt.  Suits are sold all over the place in Rio and, unlike North America, they're dirt cheap.  So, if you want to hang out at the beach, you're going to have to suck it up (or in, as the case may be)!

2.  Sitting on the sand

     -now, there are different codes for men and women here and, finally, the ladies come out the winners - well, sort of.  There are no beach towels out there on the blazingly hot sand.  A commonly worn clothing item is acceptable for women to place between their tushy and the hot sand.  The colourful sarong or "kanga" is everywhere and very affordable.  Although many men also wear them, they are considered sissies if seen sitting on one on the beach.  So, what do the gentlemen do?  Well, either you withstand the heat of the bare sand on your scantilly clad behind or you'd better remember to bring your newspaper.  These appear to be the only acceptable methods other than standing.  Some men have been known to share just the corner of their female companion's kanga - but only 3%!

3.  Interaction on the beach

     -women are not to play frisbee or soccer on the beach, nor jog along the surf.  They are expected to lie about on kangas (either on their elbows or on their bellies) or sit in small groups with other women.  They are also not to be seen playing in the water with men.  Swimming is expected of the men but standing in the water about waist deep and giggling with her girlfriends is the ladies' way.

As this is a beach community, many hotels have areas set up near their location where guests can use beach chairs (for you ladies) and umbrellas.  I mean, really, is it worth suffering sunstroke to avoid being called a sissy or a gringo?

For those of you who insist on keeping your fitness routine while on holiday (come on), outdoor gyms can be found along the beaches.  But be ready to wear your tiny swimsuit and a loose tank top - that's what sitting on the stationary bikes.  So, probably you'll want to keep a towel nearby.  And NO Lululemon for you!

Let me just make it perfectly clear - these beach rules come from preparatory reading prior to our visit and observation while there.  Rest assured, I did not purchase a thong bikini (nor will I ever) or lay around like a blindingly white beached whale.  Not gonna happen.  My tankini and skirt did just fine at the pool on the roof of our hotel.


Metropolitan Cathedral of Rio de Janeiro

Designed by Edgar Fonceca and built between 1964 and 1979, this stunning structure is dedicated to St. Sebastian, the city's patron saint.  The building is architecturally reminiscent of a Mayan temple - conical in shape with textured squares.

It's a surprisingly modern looking house of worship.  Its most significant element is the stained glass panel that rises from floor to ceiling along three of the walls.  The design of each includes vibrant colours and abstract images - and when the light hits them, they create a heavenly atmosphere.  There is a beautiful altar in the centre of the sanitary and hanging from the expansive ceiling above is an amazing wooden crucifix.  As our visit was at Christmas, there was also a striking nativity set to one side of the altar.  This was quite a delightful surprise.

courtesy of www.wikipedia.com

courtesy of www.pbase.com

Sugarloaf Mountain

This hill rises out of the water in the shape of a refined loaf sugar and is comprised of granite and quartz.  One must access it from a shorter mound beside it via a glass cable car.  

This is primarily a sightseeing stop - the view of Rio is truly magnificent.  On one side, the ribbon beaches seem to go on for miles.  On the other side, one looks down on a bustling bay dotted with numerous private sailboats and yachts.

But the wider view gives the visitor a clear picture of Rio's neighbourhoods rising from the water's edge up into green, verdant hills.  Strangely, the homes with the best views in the hills are primarily in the shanty towns - the favelas - and the wealthier area is down nearer Ipanema Beach in the district of Leblon.  There are exquisite views of the city from the favelas if you're brave enough to risk entering them.  Unfortunately, they are somewhat crime-ridden.  We were able to safely stop at one point with an organized tour.

this is on the way to Corcovado

Corcovado

On the other side of the city, in Tijuca Forest National Park, is where you'll find the identifying mark of Rio de Janeiro.  Christ the Redeemer statue can be seen on this hill from anywhere in the city.  The hill itself rises 710m (2329 ft.) in the air and this imposing structure stands 38m (125 ft.) on the top.  

Standing at its base, it is enormous and very difficult to get a photo of the full length of the statue.  But even at such a size, Christ's face is gentle and calm and his arms extend out to the side, welcoming all who visit.

It is impossible to understand the magnitude of this piece until you stand at its feet looking up.  It is mammoth and it is lovely.  For those in Canada and those who are familiar with Inuit art, you will be surprised to know that this wondrous creation is carved from soapstone.

this is how far away we had to get for the Home Alone shot

Stella! New Orleans

The dining room is a beautiful combination of traditional decor - taupe leather chairs with studded accents - paired with contemporary elements.  Above the fireplace is an arrangement of brushed steel stalk and trunk inspired pieces.  The most striking item is an enormous white ceramic vase on the centre table that is simply full of incredible, colourful fresh flowers.

Our meal was a delight.  We chose their four course menu - as each course had several selections from which to choose, we had them pair the wines.  We had mentioned our love of Spanish wines, so the staff made special pairings with only Spanish wine.  We'd never had any of them and they were terrific.  

My first course was devilled egg with caviar and champagne gelee.  'Nuff said.  Heery started with foie gras (you know how he hates that stuff) and a mustard sauce with fruit. The second course was a fantastic Asian chili prawn dish - three gulf shrimp on a slice of baguette - all drenched in a spicy chili sauce.  So yummy!  We both had this course and the third one.  Flounder with mussels, clams, calamari, shrimp and Nantucket scallops in a coconut and kaffir lime broth.  Each piece was perfectly tender but the scallops had a succulent sweetness to them that was quite unique.  The fourth course was rather unusual.  I had a citrus verrine with honey custard - this was a kind of ice creamy sauce on top of this lovely sticky custard.  Heery had a Stella version of a warm, moist almond pound cake.

All of our food choices had elements of classic New Orleans cuisine combined with more modern cooking techniques.  The whole staff was very expert and inviting - we felt most welcome and comfortable.  You simply must go!

courtesy of www.bloomberg.com